Cross-country skiing in Quebec, New Hampshire and Maine

Cross country (Nordic) skiing is the alternative sport of choice for strong cyclists in the winter. It provides an excellent aerobic workout and stretches out muscles that don't get used while we're on the bikes. Here in Massachusetts we are fortunate to have 8-9 months of decent cycling weather, the month called November which is excellent for hiking the trails, and then when we are fortunate we can ski from December through early March. But north of Boston, we can't count on having a snowpack every year, so we plan a couple of excursions north into Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine and Quebec each year.

Deb and I enjoyed spending a week in Quebec City several winters with Appalachian Mountain Club cross country ski trip which I co-led. Quebec City is a great place to stay for a week of cross country or downhill skiing. Even in the depths of winter, Old Quebec City is alive with people visiting shops, ice sculptures, great restaurants, and incredible old world charm. We have always stayed at the Lowes Concord hotel which is a short walking distance from the old city walls, and has several delightful restaurants nearby. The weather will be cold, and the wind can be wicked in Quebec City, so wear warm clothing and cover yourself well, even when just going out to eat. It's advisable to leave your options open a bit when planning your ski outings, to respond to the weather conditions which can vary quite a bit at the locations listed below. --Gordon Harris , owner, Bike New England


Duschesnay is less than an hour to the west of Quebec City. It is professionally run with a large warm ski lodge, well groomed trails, and is home to the Ice Hotel. In the summer we have ridden by Duschesnay on the Piste Jacque-Cartier/Portneuf bike trail that runs from the remote Portneuf Reserve to Quebec City.

Camp Mercier is about an hour north of Quebec City in the Laurentides wilderness, and just a few miles from Stoneham downhill ski area. The lodge is older and primitive compared to Duschesnay, but there is a great fireplace to warm by, old fashioned hospitality, and some of the best cross-country skiing in the area. There are several warming huts along the way, and the gray jays will eat out of your hand. Don't miss this extraordinarily beautiful Nordic ski area.

Mount Sainte-Anne is less than an hour east of Quebec City north of the St. Lawrence River. On the way, you'll pass Montmorency Falls on the left, and the bridge to Ile d'Orleans on the right. Mount Sainte Anne is the most popular of the Quebec City area downhill ski resorts. The cross-county ski center is about a mile away, and connects to the downhill lodge by a trail that runs along a mountain stream.

Les Sentier des Caps is a more primitive cross-country ski area in the Charlevoix area along the St. Lawrence, about an hour east of Quebec City. There are 32 kilometers of trails and a small but sufficient lodge. It also has a great snowshoe trail to the summit with snow deep enough to swallow you if you step too far off the side. Close by is Le Massif de Charlevoix , an extraordinary downhill ski area with the lodge at the top and trails with a panoramic view of the St. Lawrence as you ski down to the river.

Mont Orford is over an hour southwest of Quebec City, near the US border in the Eastern Townships of Quebec. The area promotes itself as a cycling destination in the summer and offers both downhill and cross country skiing in the winter. The nearest city is Sherbrooke, but Magog and Orford are charming communities near the base of the mountain. The cross country ski center offers a mix of easy and challenging trails, with a small but modern lodge at the edge of a lake.

Bretton Woods On our February 2009 trip to Quebec City we skied first at Bretton Woods because it is a convenient first day stop from Boston, and is a relatively short distance from Mont Orford. One of New Hampshire's most popular cross country ski resorts, Bretton Woods is nestled in the White Mountains and can make an excellent weekend ski destination from Boston.