The Cabot Trail
A cycling tour of the world-famous Cabot Trail on Nova Scotia's Cape Breton Island
"I have traveled around the globe. I have seen
the Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes, the Alps and the
Highlands of Scotland, but for simple beauty Cape Breton outrivals
them all "
--Alexander Graham Bell
World
renowned for its beauty, the Cabot Trail is also the most popular
multi-day cycling route in Canada. It is the greatest protected
wilderness in Nova Scotia. As cyclists, we may well get the
opportunity to photograph black bears, moose, and white tail dear.
The coast is famous for whales, porpoises, and seals.
We toured Cape Breton and the famouse Cabot Trail in the summer of
2003. This route is hilly to mountainous, and requires riders to be
physically in shape. We will ride a clockwise route in order to take
advantage of the stiff tailwinds that will literally help lift us
through the two toughest days of climbing. Our early September
weekend was chosen so that the summer traffic, complete with wide
campers and motor homes, has mostly dissipated. This is also the
time when mosquitoes and black flies have disappeared. The slightly
cooler weather is a plus for those long climbs you'll be enjoying!
DAY
ONE: St. Anns. Our first
destination was the village of St. Anns, on the Cabot Trail. We
stayed for the night at the
Chanterelle Inn,
overlooking the valley where the North River joins St. Anns Bay.
Borrowing from the lines of a classic Cape Breton barn, the Inn
celebrates the regions First Nations, Gaelic and French heritage and
the beauty of nature in an elegant setting along the Cabot Trail.
That afternoon, take the opportunity to do a sweet preview ride of
up to 35 miles around around St. Anns Bay. For this ride, we take
the Cabot Trail south to Rt. 205, then turn north along the east
side of the Bay, and switching over quickly to local route Rt. 312.
Two miles before reaching Englishtown, we take a 5 minute ferry ride
(cyclists ride free, and the ferry leaves every 10 minutes.) Looking
out into the Bay, you'll see rocky points known as the Bird Islands.
Upon reaching Tarbotville, we turn south, returning to St. Anns on
the Cabot Trail. Distance: 30 miles.
DAY TWO St. Anns to Margaree Valley. After starting out riding south on the Cabot Trail, we join the Trans Canada Highway (Rt. 105), with wide shoulders, only briefly. Then we take Rt. 205 to Baddeck. This charming resort village is often called the starting point of the Cabot Trail. Just before reaching town, well stop in at the Alexander Graham Bell museum, a National Historic Site. We turn west on the Cabot Trail, ride past Lake O Law, with rolling hills, following the Margaret River. Hunters Mountain at an elevation of 500 ft. (really a hill) offers only a moderate challenge.. Distance: 45 miles. Spend the night at the Normaway Inn.
DAY THREE : Margaree to Chetticamp: At Margaree Forks, take the
side road to East Margaree to visit the Margaree Bicentennial
Museum, with many artifacts from the area. Not long after reaching
the towns of Margaree Harbor and Belle Cote, and turning up the
coast, you'll pass the unusual Scarecrow Theater, an outdoor display
of 100 scarecrows representing public figures from Cape Breton's
history. We continue up the Cape Breton Coast to Cheticamp, West
Main Entrance to Cape Breton Highlands National Park. We begin to
encounter the foothills of the Cape Breton Highlands. Cheticamp is
the remote Acadian west main entrance to the Cape Breton Highlands
National Park. A fishing port, it also offers whale-watching.
The vibrant Acadian culture of this town includes a fiddling style
all its own. Cheticamp calls itself the Hooked rug capital of the
world. A not to be missed side trip is Cheticamp Island, where
you'll view a lonely lighthouse high on the bluffs. For pictures of
this outpost of civilization, go to:
http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/starmand/Town.htm. Distance: 41 miles.
Tonight we recommend the
Auberget Doucet
Inn and Restaurant.
DAY FOUR: Cheticamp to Cape North: Get
ready, for today is your greatest challenge ride! For the next two
days, you'll will be encountering grades up to 15%. On the plus
side, there's almost always a stiff tailwind that will help you
cycle up these mountains, and you'll be sure to see eagles soaring!
After riding north 5 miles, we pass the Visitor Center at the Cape
Breton Highlands National Park entrance. Then for 6 miles, the
Cabot Trail remains very close to the water as we tackle a tough
ascent, but with incredible scenery. We mostly maintain this
altitude, with rolling Alpine terrain, and at 17 miles, we reach the
summit of French Mountain (455 meters). Just past French Lake is the
Bog Walk, an interpretive boardwalk trail that explains the
highland's incredible beauty! At mile 27, we are at the summit of
MacKenzie Mountain (elevation 335 meters). Here we begin a 6 mile
moderate descent to Pleasant Bay on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. And
its uphill again, with a ride to the summit of North Mountain
(elevation 445 m) at mile 38, about a 5 mile climb. Then we descend
again, to the village of Cape North. While this is the Cape Breton
ride of which many cyclists dream, rest assured that our support van
will be there to assist with the hills, and provide plenty of
refreshments, and water! Distance : 44 Miles. Tonight's stay
is at the Markland Resort
in Dingwall, Cape North. Frommers Guide says it's ".. the best
resort location on Cape Breton Island" ..."the best evening meal at
the top of the island."
DAY
FIVE Cape North to Ingonish
Although not as challenging as the day before, there are plenty of
climbs and descents. We leave the Cabot Trail, and follow the 15
mile Alternative Scenic Route which has very little vehicular
traffic that affords spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean all the
way to Neils Harbor, a very pictureque fishing village. At Smelt
Brook , stop in at the Sea Spray Cycle Centre. Along this route we
visit a stunning coastal panorama, with mountains climbing right
from the sea. White Point is one of the most beautiful fishing
villages on the route.Theres a 3 mile climb, and then a 3 mile
descent to New Haven. We rejoin the Cabot Trail at Neils Harbor,
another fishing village, with shops and services. We ride close to
the Ocean, again with spectacular views. Many people like to stop
for a swim at Black Brook, and Green Cove is actually the site of
magnificent blocks of pink granite! The cycling's not too difficult
here. Distance: 32 miles. Tonight's stay is at the
Keltic Lodge, perched on a narrow stretch between two bays:
DAY SIX Ingonish to St. Anns After
passing through the villages of Ingonish Ferry, Ingonish harbor, and
Ingonish Beach, we begin a 3 mile ascent to the summit of Cape
Smokey (elevation 366 meters), with a breath-taking view of the
ocean and its coastlines. Then there's a 3 mile descent, with some
very steep drops, an average 12% grade. From there we have gentle
riding the rest of the day. At mile 35, we continue on the Cabot
Trail where Rt. 312 joins from the left, to the ferry. We head back
to St. Anns, through an area known as the Artisans' Loop, where you
might want to obtain souveniers from the ride. Distance: 47 miles.
We stayed again at the
Chanterelle Inn
View the Cabot Trail counter clockwise from Baddeck, NS on Map My Ride
Recommended reading: Cycling Nova Scotia, Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail
